Septic Maintenance

FarmerChick

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Just some info to read and ponder. I read it and it has some usual info along with some good advice.

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How to Properly Maintain Your Septic System


When you buy a car, you are given an owner's manual containing instructions on how to care for your car. Septic systems often cost as much or more than cars. Unfortunately, nobody gives you a manual when they are installed, and most people have little idea of how to maintain a septic system. Some people don't even know they have a septic system! As a result, many septic systems fail unnecessarily. The price for failure is steep in two ways. More than 1200 people die each year from contaminated water, and failing septic systems are the leading source of water born disease outbreaks in the country today. Septic system replacement is also extremely expensive, with costs running from $5000 to $20,000 or more. Fortunately, there are some highly effective, inexpensive steps you can take to eliminate this problem.



Before discussing solutions, let's look at why septic systems fail. Septic system failure is actually pretty simple to understand. Think about this...When a good septic system fails, the tank doesn't fail, the soil fails...and the soil fails because it won't allow liquid to pass through it. In most cases the soil fails when it gets plugged with solids. Now for your solutions.



Use a Washing Machine Filter.


Did you know that washing machines are one of the leading causes of septic system failure? The primary culprit is lint generated by washing machines, which clogs the soil in drain fields. Did you know that typical family washing machine produces enough lint every year to carpet an entire living room floor! Lint screens and nylon socks trap less than 5 percent of these contaminates. These minute particles, because they are so small and light, do not settle in the septic tank. Instead, they stay in suspension and are flushed out to the drain field where they plug-up the pores of the soil bed.



To compound the problem, much of our clothing and carpeting is now manufactured with synthetic materials such as polyester and nylon. These substances are not biodegradable, and will not break down in a septic system. Instead, they accumulate and clog the soil. Once these non-organic materials enter the drain field, there is no way to remove them.



The good news is that lint can be prevented from entering the septic system through the use of a reusable, inline filter which attaches to your washing machine discharge hose. The filter, called the Septic Protector, retails for $149.95.



Avoid Excessive Water Use.


You can also damage your septic system by doing a large number of laundry loads in a short period of time. In standard septic systems, solid materials settle in the tank, while effluent flows out into the ground. If you put more water into the septic system than it is built to handle, the high volume of water will flood your system, and can also flush solids out of the tank into the drain field. A typical washing machine can use up to 62 gallons of water per wash load. On a heavy wash day you can easily put 400, 500, 600 gallons of water down the drain in a few hours (many washing machines use 60 or more gallons of water per load). The solution is to spread out your water use. Do 1 or 2 loads of laundry per day, rather than 10-15 loads on Saturday morning.



Water softeners can also damage your system by putting too much water through the septic system. These devices can put several hundred gallons of water down the drain every week that is not contaminated and does not need to go through the treatment process. Fortunately, there are a couple solutions to this problem. You can upgrade your softener with a newer efficient model that uses less water and regenerates on demand (when you use x number of gallons of water) instead of a timer system that regenerates whether you use water or not. You can also install a mini-septic system for your softener.



Prevent Solids from Leaving the Tank.


First of all, you should get your tank pumped at regularly scheduled intervals to prevent excessive accumulation of solids in the tank. Under normal conditions, you should have the tank pumped and inspected every 1-3 years. Very Important: Tanks should be pumped and inspected through the manhole cover, not the inspection pipe.



Effluent filters, about $70, are installed (by a contractor) in the exit baffle of the tank and stop the larger solids from getting out to the drainfield. These filters are cleaned every few years when you have your tank pumped. They are cheap insurance and along with a washing machine filter, one of the best things you can do to protect your system.



Usage of Household Cleaning Products.


Excessive use of these products can contribute to septic system failure. If you do over 5 loads a week using bleach, problems could arise. Avoid powdered detergents, as they contain non-biodegradable fillers that can plug up your system. Also, be careful with harsh automatic toilet bowl cleaners, which have put quite a few septic systems out of commission.



Should I Use a Separate System for my Washing Machine?


Some people say that you should use a separate system for your washing machine, called a laundry interceptor. However, this is not necessary and is in fact undesirable. Washing machines should discharge into the regular system because it actually works BETTER than discharging into it's own system. In order to work, septic tanks require bacteria colonies which break down biodegradable matter. These bacteria colonies require "food" which is found in our wastewater, but not in detergent. Without "food" these bacterial colonies die, and the system fails. Many people who have installed these systems found this out the hard way, as their systems failed in a short period of time. A research project conducted in several east coast states utilized some rather high tech systems for washing machine discharge and many began failing in as little as 8 months.



Other tips:
* Only discharge biodegradable wastes into system.

* Divert surface runoff water from roofs, patios, driveways, and other areas away from your drainfield.

* Keep your septic tank cover accessible.

* Have your septic tank pumped regularly. It should also be inspected for leaks, cracks, and to make sure the exit baffle is in place.

* Compost your garbage or put it in the trash.

* Divert surface runoff water from roofs, patios, driveways, and other areas away from the drain field.



Don't:

* Use a garbage disposal. These items usually double the amount of solids added to the tank!
* Flush sanitary napkins, tampons, disposable diapers, condoms and other non biodegradable products into your system.
* Dump solvents, oils, paints, thinners, disinfectants, pesticides or poisons down the drain which can disrupt the treatment process and contaminate the groundwater.
* Use harsh toilet bowl cleaners, which have put quite a few septic systems out of commission.
* Dig in your drainfield or build anything over it.
* Drive over your drainfield or compact the soil in any way.
* Plant trees or shrubbery in the absorption field area, because the roots can get into the lines and plug them. Grass is the only thing that should be planted on or near a drainfield.
* Cover the absorption field with hard surfaces, such as concrete or asphalt.



If Your System Fails.


In quite a few cases, a tune-up can fix your system and you can avoid the high costs of replacing the system. This tune-up includes properly pumping the tank, cleaning the drainfield lines, and installing washing machine and effluent filters. If these measures are not sufficient, some failed systems can be rejuvenated by fracturing the soil. This process utilizes a hollow tube inserted into the soil, then a 300 pound blast of air is injected into the soil creating thousands of tiny fissures. These fissures allow the drainfield to drain, creating an oxygen atmosphere and allowing the aerobic bacterial colonies to re-populate. This process can be performed in a matter of hours with no digging or damage to the yard. The cost will range from $1,000-$2,000, which is a lot cheaper than a replacement septic system.

If you have a clay soil which has become plugged due to sodium from wastewater, Septic Seep can help. This product releases sodium bonded clays and reopens soil, restoring passages of air and water. It also has the added benefit of dispersing greases and scums that clog soil passages.
 

dacjohns

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Good information.


When I worked for a health department part of my job was permitting and inspecting private home sewage systems. All the research we had access to at the time said that adding enzymes, etc., like you find in the magazine ads was useless. I'm glad you didn't recommend doing that.

I think we also required a "trash tank" a small tank between the house and the septic tank if the house had a garbage disposal. The extra tank was to catch the solids from the disposal and keep them out of the main tank.

Periodic pumping is one of the most important things you can do. It keeps the anaerobic activity working and keeps the sludge from leaving the tank and getting into the secondary treatment part of the system.
 

TanksHill

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Very informative FC ... I had issues with gophers. Holes everywhere in the leach field. My husband thought we had a broken leach line and started digging. We finally called the gentleman who installed our system. He almost killed my husband. He told him to put the dirt back compact it and act like he never dug in the field. It turned out that the gopher holes were working like a path with least resistance. The water was coming to the surface more quickly through the gopher tunnel. He recommended we plug the gopher holes on a regular basis.

I actually have fruit trees on my leach field. He said it was ok. They grow great. :D I am definitely going to look into that lint filter.
 

OkieJonesClan

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Thank you FC! I was just wondering last week what we should be doing to keep ours in tip top shape. We have used the stuff they sell in the stores a few times, ikes! Now we can do a better job and get a lint filter for our washer.
 

enjoy the ride

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In the contract with the builders of my home, I specified that I wanted no garbage disposal. They put one in- I said I didn't want it, they said I could just not use it- I said I wanted it out. It's gone. :lol:
Also the book that I bought on septic systems and how to maintain them said that occasional bleach was not a problem but any oils were- no fabric softeners or cooking oil down the drain.
 

ams3651

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i have started in the last year to be more aware of what I put down the drains. I buy as many cleaners as possible that are phosphate free or of natural ingredients. I have an additive I put every other month down the toilet with all those nice little buggies in it. Mine is 35 years old and I can not afford if anything should go wrong with it.
 

sylvie

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Great thread!

I'm going to cut back on the baby oil I slather on and hope it's not too late. :hide

I go to a laundry to wash. With a well I liked using their water and machines. Now I learn that I'm saving my septic! Cool!

We use a composting toilet in addition to the regular toilet so that is cut by at least 50%. We hooked up our regular toilet to a cistern that catches only rainwater and the bowl needs only a wipe of a brush with mild cleanser. No scale or rust that would need harsh cleansers.

I reuse dish water for my landscaping so the septic rarely sees that.

I hadn't considered the synthetics, but I hate carpeting, don't have it, and like the look of area rugs which can easily be traded out for natural materials.

My DH worked for a company with a containment basin/ soup pond. They experimented with enzymes which didn't work and special bacteria, also ineffective. They spent 1 1/2 million on the problem.
 

inchworm

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When we lost electricty for 3 days last summer, I was introduced to the laundromat. What a wonder! I can do 5 loads of laundry at the same time! I became a convert -- now I'm not taxing my well and now I'm not taxing my septic! And I hate to confess -- but their machines were cleaner then mine :rolleyes:

Inchy
 

hoosier

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This is a great thread! I do everything right except having it pumped out.

I TRIED to get it pumped out but - here is my story....

I called a local company to pump out my system. They said the concrete tank I uncovered (where the builder said it was) was not my tank - it only held 5 gallons and ha don inlet or outlet. They spent two hours looking for my tank with no luck.
I called the builder and he said the guy that had pumped out the tank when we built our house (there had been a mobile home here) had died just two weeks prior and he couldn't remember where it was.
I contacted the local health dept., but they didn't have a record of it for some reason. One of the guys from the health dept came out to look for it but he couldn't find it either!
I live in fear of it failing.

If anyone can tell me how to find our septic tank, I would really appreciate it!!!
 

DrakeMaiden

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It sounds like the builder is giving you s____, to me. I would think it is completely the builder's responsibility legally to know where the septic is, after all he would have to have hooked up to it. That makes me wonder if you are hooked up at all. :/

It should be on your building permit plans. The health dept. should know. If they don't . . . maybe it isn't there! :ep
 
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