patandchickens
Crazy Cat Lady
The wider the span, the more expensive per square foot. So a 15x60 will be cheaper than 30x30 even though they cover the same square footage (disclaimer: this assumes a reasonable portion of the wall is left open, shed-style, on the longer building, and that you are not using egregiously expensive siding). There are two reasons for this: first, shorter trusses or rafters can be lighter-built and thus cheaper, and a narrower building can be shorter for a given roof pitch, thus a bit of savings on posts and end siding.lorihadams said:We have a contractor looking at it and he gave us an estimate of $25000 for a 30x30 with 2 lean tos. I can't do that. We've looked at pole barn kits and it is still soooooo expensive.
And you do NOT need a kit, just buy the individual materials, really Even if you decide to pop for a wider span, you can buy trusses from a manufacturer; if you use a narrower design, you can either build trusses yourself from common lumber, or use rafters instead which obviously are just lumber.
I don't personally see a problem with it, as the animals needn't have access to them and if they are decomissioned telephone poles they will be pretty thoroughly weathered by now; however if you still don't want to use them, that's fair enough, just buy pressure-treated 6x6's.Hubby can get free telephone poles but they are coated with creosote and he doesn't want to use them in the barn.
If you do a raised wood floor, make sure it is WELL raised, so cats and terriers can easily get under there to do rodent purge work Otherwise it becomes a rat's nest, literally.At this point we want a dirt floor and planned on doing a raised wood floor with a utility sink in a milk room that was like 10x10.
Run the loafing areas off the ENDS, making it a longer barn, not off the sides, in order to avoid the "has to be very tall" problem.We were looking at doing a general loafing area for the rest of it. Problem is that to get adequate drainage and roof angles we will have to do a 10 foot side wall which will bring the roof pitch to a 7-12.
For whatever it's worth, I built a 14' tall, 600 sq ft horse shed (it is L-shaped, 12x40 plus a 10x12 'L') six years ago for approximately $7k in materials, and that was with using painted rather than galvanized steel siding and roofing so it'd match another building, and that's Canadian prices which at the time were running about 25% higher than US prices due to dollar differences and pricing differences. And I am pretty sure I could have done it significantly cheaper if I'd scrounged and shopped-around more, I was just in way too much of a hurry to get it done before our first winter here.
Another thing to consider: You can add on to pole-built buildings pretty easily in the future. So, what if you design something sort of modular, where you can build what you can afford NOW, and it is structured so that you can easily add on more (in a functional and aesthetically-pleasing way) in the future. Easiest way to add is to have the additions have separate roofs, so, add-on lean-tos and add-on lengthwise shed-type additions are easiest.
Good luck, have fun,
Pat