Diatomaceous earth for Sheep?

[Ewe Mama]

Do any of you kind folks know anything about dosing sheep with DE? I am looking into non-chemical wormers, but haven't found much about proper dosing levels.

Thanks!

 

[tortoise]

It's generally ineffective in ruminants. Most research shows no effect or statistically insignificant effect. I have looked at the research regarding DE used internally for parasite control. I found one piece which indicated DE "may offer some benefits". However, this piece also notes that composition and processing of DE varies widely and determines the efficacy. DE obtained from different sources cannot be expected to have the same effect.

A "non-chemical" wormer is mythological. DE has chemical composition, just like everything else... even water. The word "chemical" does not imply danger or toxicity, nor does "natural" imply safety.

Jut for kicks, here is the chemical composition of the particular DE which "may offer some benefits"

SiO2 91 %
Cl 328 ppm
Co 5 ppm
Ge 1 ppm
Sm 0.4 ppm
LOI 3.54 %
F 118 ppm
Ga 3 ppm
Mo 1 ppm
Dy 0.3 ppm
Al2O3 2.29 %
V 172 ppm
Pd 3 ppm
W 1 ppm
Er 0.21 ppm
CaO 0.77 %
Ba 106 ppm
La 2.3 ppm
Br <1 ppm
Ag 0.2 ppm
Fe2O3 0.66 %
Sr 83.8 ppm
Nd 2.3 ppm
Hf 0.7 ppm
Yb 0.2 ppm
MgO 0.42 %
Zr 19.5 ppm
Sc 2.2 ppm
U 0.69 ppm
Cd <0.2 ppm
Na2O 0.33 %
B 15 ppm
As 2 ppm
Pr 0.57 ppm
Eu 0.13 ppm
C(total) 0.27 %
Zn 14.2 ppm
Nb 2 ppm
Be <0.5 ppm
Tl <0.1 ppm
K2O 0.25 %
Cr 9 ppm
Pb 2 ppm
Bi <0.5 ppm
Ho 0.06 ppm
C(org) 0.14 %
Ni 9 ppm
Sn <2 ppm
In <0.5 ppm
Tb 0.06 ppm
TiO2 0.12 %
Rb 8.4 ppm
Sb 1.7 ppm
Se <0.5 ppm
Lu <0.05 ppm
S 0.06 %
Cu 7 ppm
Cs 1.5 ppm
Ta <0.5 ppm
Tm <0.05 ppm
MnO 0.02 %
Li 6 ppm
Y 1.5 ppm
Te <0.5 ppm
Pt <10 ppb
P2O5 <0.01 %
Ce 5.2 ppm
Th 1 ppm
Gd 0.42 ppm
Au <2 ppm

 

[Britesea]

I remember arguing with my doctor years ago and newly converted to a more natural lifestyle that something (can't remember what, now) was better because it was natural. "So is cyanide!" he snapped back.

 

[tortoise]

Remember that you cannot completely eliminate "worms" in your sheep. Your goal is only to keep parasite levels low enough so they don't affect your flock's growth and wellness. Ideally, you would be using rotational grazing to help control the worm's life cycle. Ideally, you would take a fecal egg count from each individual in your flock and only treat your heavy shedders, follow the dosing schedule exactly, and rotate products.

Best practices are based in good science. We need to remember that everything has risk, and that there is a lot of information and data available to us to help us minimize risks. A sheep vet is hard to find, but any large animal or equine vet can process the fecal egg counts for you. For anything your local vet(s) can't answer, contact Pipestone. http://www.pipevet.com/

 

[Denim Deb]

Tortoise, I looked at your list and suddenly felt like I was back in college chemistry!

 

[Ewe Mama]

OK, I know everything is made up of elements, so everything is made up of chemical compounds and whatnot.

I am trying to keep my sheep healthier without developing parasite resistance to traditional wormers.

 

[Ewe Mama]

Tortoise, I looked at your list and suddenly felt like I was back in college chemistry!

Me too!

 

[Beekissed]

OK, I know everything is made up of elements, so everything is made up of chemical compounds and whatnot.

I am trying to keep my sheep healthier without developing parasite resistance to traditional wormers.

Look into Basic H, proper culling and how Joel Salatin uses it for his cattle. I used that info and other forms of more natural anthelmintics to dose my sheep. Prevention is worth a pound of cure and that still holds true today. Low stocking rates, acceptable loads, strict culling, breed selection, switching up the things you use to prevent worm infestation, exploring healthy gut flora and how important that is to preventing infestation, using the right mineral supplement, developing nutritious pasture, providing adequate browse, etc. are all things to be studying when thinking of using natural means for keeping parasites to a minimum or to acceptable loads.

Rotation of pasture is only effective if you have lots of it and can stay off pasture for a prescribed amount of time~most say 6 to 12 months is best for pasture resting time, some say 3 mo. is sufficient...if you have small acreage, it's nigh impossible to "rest" pasture that long without overgrazing the other portions.

Here's a site you might find interesting: http://www.sheep101.info/201/parasite.html