For those who've been hit by blight

Joel_BC

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Late blight has come through our region in dampish years. It was quite widespread in 2010, and maybe even more so in 2011 (when we lost all our tomatoes and potatoes to it).

I feel like knocking on wood, but we seem to have been able to overcome our blight problems this year - even though it's been the kind of cool, damp year that promotes blight. And even though we grew our potatoes in the same garden (only 25 feet away) from where they got it last year. And grew our tomatoes in the same beds in the greenhouse as last year.

Our approach was to choose potatoes that are supposed to be blight-resistant and also resistant varieties of tomatoes (Early Girl and Legend, both indeterminate or vine-type that yield "slicer" tomatoes). We also used used an organic bacterial soil-drench product (Actinovate is the trade name). We used it for watering the tomato seedlings that we started, and then later drenched the beds when we transplanted the tomatoes into the main soil of the greenhouse. The bacteria are said to consume the fungus that causes the blight.

Out in our big garden, I bathed each of the seed potatoes in an Actinovate solution, and then took the remainder of the solution and watered each row of holes I'd planted the spuds in, after covering the seed potatoes over.

Also - separate issue - we've made some headway against the clubroot (caused by a soil slime mold) that had reduced our brocolli and cauliflowers to shrunken heads. We used a different organic bacterial innoculation, sold under the trade name Serenade. The brocolli has done quite well this year, though the treatment did not seem to benefit the cauliflower plants quite as much. But the results are impressive enough that I think we'll use Serenade next year, with higher expectations. More of the good micro-organisms will be established by next season.
 

Hinotori

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Ok, now I'm going to go out and see if we have those available here. I've been considering trying potatoes, but hadn't because of the issue with blight. My tomatoes aren't doing well again this year.

I can get 50 pound boxes of potatoes from my uncle who lives over on the dry side, but I want to try and grow most of what we eat myself.
 

so lucky

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daddykirbs said:
Wow, I have a lot to learn.
Welcome, daddykirbs. Sometimes it is best to go into something kind of blind; otherwise, what we don't know will paralyze us with fear!
Forge ahead!! And we'll help you.
 

luvinlife offthegrid

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I haven't had blight issues in a few years. I don't grow potatoes, so I Know I'm not contracting it that way. I live a mile from any other human, so I must be getting it from the wind, or it is being spread from a wild nightshade variety, or I'm bringing it in somehow. I bagged every plant from that year as soon as I saw blight, so I don't have a rogue plant that stayed and cooked in the compost pile. :hu

I only plant a few tomatoes in buckets, so I might give this a try, thanks for posting.
 

baymule

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What does blight look like? Does anyone have pictures they could post to educate the "blightless"? I don't think I have ever been struck by blight. In our heat, plants just die of heatstroke. :lol:
 

Joel_BC

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I think I should have mentioned that we did practice the method that has been traditionally recommended for when you've had blight: clean up the soil after you pull out the blighted plants - meaning, get as much of the infected-plant bits and roots out of your soil as you can. That's common sense, I think.
 

~gd

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Joel_BC said:
Late blight has come through our region in dampish years. It was quite widespread in 2010, and maybe even more so in 2011 (when we lost all our tomatoes and potatoes to it).

I feel like knocking on wood, but we seem to have been able to overcome our blight problems this year - even though it's been the kind of cool, damp year that promotes blight. And even though we grew our potatoes in the same garden (only 25 feet away) from where they got it last year. And grew our tomatoes in the same beds in the greenhouse as last year.

Our approach was to choose potatoes that are supposed to be blight-resistant and also resistant varieties of tomatoes (Early Girl and Legend, both indeterminate or vine-type that yield "slicer" tomatoes). We also used used an organic bacterial soil-drench product (Actinovate is the trade name). We used it for watering the tomato seedlings that we started, and then later drenched the beds when we transplanted the tomatoes into the main soil of the greenhouse. The bacteria are said to consume the fungus that causes the blight.

Out in our big garden, I bathed each of the seed potatoes in an Actinovate solution, and then took the remainder of the solution and watered each row of holes I'd planted the spuds in, after covering the seed potatoes over.

Also - separate issue - we've made some headway against the clubroot (caused by a soil slime mold) that had reduced our brocolli and cauliflowers to shrunken heads. We used a different organic bacterial innoculation, sold under the trade name Serenade. The brocolli has done quite well this year, though the treatment did not seem to benefit the cauliflower plants quite as much. But the results are impressive enough that I think we'll use Serenade next year, with higher expectations. More of the good micro-organisms will be established by next season.
Do you know what the bacteria are (should be on the label)? The reason I ask is often the culture can be kept alive and muliplied when you start with a clean culture. I don't have the formal training (college) and most of my practial experience is in growing bacteria that cause disease [for vaccines NOT for WMD] usually the bigest problem is to keep the strain alive to package and deliver to the user. If we can figure it out you could have an unlimited supply to treat your plants/soil with. There are others here that know more formal microbiology than I but we used to start with a two drop sample and grow up to 2000gallons of culture for harvest. ~gd
 

Joel_BC

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~gd said:
Do you know what the bacteria are (should be on the label)? The reason I ask is often the culture can be kept alive and muliplied when you start with a clean culture. I don't have the formal training (college) and most of my practial experience is in growing bacteria that cause disease [for vaccines NOT for WMD] usually the bigest problem is to keep the strain alive to package and deliver to the user. If we can figure it out you could have an unlimited supply to treat your plants/soil with. There are others here that know more formal microbiology than I but we used to start with a two drop sample and grow up to 2000gallons of culture for harvest. ~gd
That's an excellent question, and I can see the practicality of your point.

However, the situation is weird.

I'm sure Actinovate can be purchased in a labelled container, but I bought mine as a powder in a plastic baggy from a garden-supply that's about a forty-minute drive from my place. It just looked like... well, a tan-colored powder. It was cold from a fridge when I got it. Twelve bucks for an ounce (by weight) - by volume, maybe three ounces. They gave me a photocopied sheet of instructions for mixing it with water, and they told me to drive it home and refrigerate it until I was ready to use it. I began mixing it up and using it with the seedlings within a week or so of purchase, and had used the rest of it (in the potato patch and the greenhouse beds) within five weeks, I believe. All gone.

Possibly there is an online site that could be found with Google that will say what the bacterium is.

But I have complete confidence your idea would work, ~gd. Buy some, make a culture, proliferate the culture, etc.

I meant my earlier post to imply that the bacteria will proliferate in my soil, both outdoors and in the greenhouse.
 
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