tortoise
Wild Hare
I think the cons listed for rabbits depend entirely upon your choices for housing and choice of rabbits. And with not knowing what to expect.
"hate the mess and cages"
Yeah - they do poop a lot. and it makes fab fertilizer! There are a lot of ways to set up cages depending on how often you deal with poop. I have mine set up high maintenance. It takes me 20 min to clean every day in summer, and I clean only once a week in winter. It's important to have urine guards set up for bucks and territorial does. I have my cages set on plastic trays that have wood chips in them to absorb any urine-spray drips. I dump poop into a compost pile and get awesome compost from it.
"My experience is they get sick more easily--ear mites, cocci, and my sil is dealing with wry neck right now) IDK if this lessens by being freeranged, we'll see."
I can't compare to ducks, but I haven't had this experience. I've only had one rabbit sick - he had mites when I bought him, led to a wool block. Didn't know the wool block was secondary to mites. Just started treating for mites and we'll be done with it. I've never had ear mites, worms, wry neck or pasteurella outbreak. (All of my rabbits carry pasteurella.) I do have my rabbits out in the grass for summer, but because there hasn't been a dog with worms in this yeard for at least 6 years, there is minimal risk of my rabbits getting worms. I have never needed to treat them for worms.
I think that disease has a whole lot to do with their environments and handling. I'm out there every day handling every rabbit. I groom them regularly. I notice every little thing that might be a health concern. Their cages are scrubbed and burned free of wool/hair. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It's not a dump some food in the bowl and fill up a water bottle deal (if you want to do it well). If I can't get out there, I have a neighbor come out and handle them for me.
"My brother is missing a finger tip due to an ill tempered buck. ... I also have a scar on my stomach from getting scratched by a rabbit." "if your does are not friendly, they can and will bite"
Rabbits are not usually the fluffy cute little house pet. There are AGGRESSIVE rabbits out there. Rabbits do kick, scratch, and some bite. They can "thump" and knock the wind out of a person. Rabbits can growl! For real!
When choosing rabbits, look for the calmest, most docile and easy-to-handle rabbits. This is super-important to me. My first (pet) rabbit in high school was extremely aggressive. I will never tolerate a poor temperament in a rabbit.
Rabbits (especially does) become more aggressive as they age. Unless she is a fabulous producer, just butcher her out and be done with it.
BUT, I've taken 2 rabbits that were said to be a little skittish or thumpy and when put into my rabbitry were perfectly docile and calm. Cage setup and the way you handle a rabbit makes a big difference.
For example, I free-ranged rabbits for a while. Even with the same amount of grooming and handling as a caged/indoor rabbit, these rabbits were kittish and jumpy. I brought them back into cages and they settled down. Because of this experience, I DON'T believe that free-ranging rabbits is necessarily a good idea. A nervous jumpy rabbit is not a happy rabbit.
Rabbits will scratch you if you don't handle them correctly/carefully. (Also poor temperament rabbits with kick and scratch regardless of how you handle them.) I have gauntlets for handling rabbits. I rarely use them, but when my son (3 yrs old) handles a rabbit (he has a tiny pet rabbit, not a meaty) he wears gauntlets.
I'll shut up now, lol. You can see pics of my rabbits and rabbitry here: http://www.penelopesrabbitry.blogspot.com
One other thing to consider. IF you have rabbits with good temperament, you can get yourself in a position to command a premium price for pet rabbits. Around here pet rabbits go for free to $15. I get $60 because they have excellent temperaments. I sold off $300 worth of culls this year which gave me enough money to put in more cages, get some carry cages, add breeding stock and put in an automatic watering system. Pretty sweet.
"hate the mess and cages"
Yeah - they do poop a lot. and it makes fab fertilizer! There are a lot of ways to set up cages depending on how often you deal with poop. I have mine set up high maintenance. It takes me 20 min to clean every day in summer, and I clean only once a week in winter. It's important to have urine guards set up for bucks and territorial does. I have my cages set on plastic trays that have wood chips in them to absorb any urine-spray drips. I dump poop into a compost pile and get awesome compost from it.
"My experience is they get sick more easily--ear mites, cocci, and my sil is dealing with wry neck right now) IDK if this lessens by being freeranged, we'll see."
I can't compare to ducks, but I haven't had this experience. I've only had one rabbit sick - he had mites when I bought him, led to a wool block. Didn't know the wool block was secondary to mites. Just started treating for mites and we'll be done with it. I've never had ear mites, worms, wry neck or pasteurella outbreak. (All of my rabbits carry pasteurella.) I do have my rabbits out in the grass for summer, but because there hasn't been a dog with worms in this yeard for at least 6 years, there is minimal risk of my rabbits getting worms. I have never needed to treat them for worms.
I think that disease has a whole lot to do with their environments and handling. I'm out there every day handling every rabbit. I groom them regularly. I notice every little thing that might be a health concern. Their cages are scrubbed and burned free of wool/hair. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It's not a dump some food in the bowl and fill up a water bottle deal (if you want to do it well). If I can't get out there, I have a neighbor come out and handle them for me.
"My brother is missing a finger tip due to an ill tempered buck. ... I also have a scar on my stomach from getting scratched by a rabbit." "if your does are not friendly, they can and will bite"
Rabbits are not usually the fluffy cute little house pet. There are AGGRESSIVE rabbits out there. Rabbits do kick, scratch, and some bite. They can "thump" and knock the wind out of a person. Rabbits can growl! For real!
When choosing rabbits, look for the calmest, most docile and easy-to-handle rabbits. This is super-important to me. My first (pet) rabbit in high school was extremely aggressive. I will never tolerate a poor temperament in a rabbit.
Rabbits (especially does) become more aggressive as they age. Unless she is a fabulous producer, just butcher her out and be done with it.
BUT, I've taken 2 rabbits that were said to be a little skittish or thumpy and when put into my rabbitry were perfectly docile and calm. Cage setup and the way you handle a rabbit makes a big difference.
For example, I free-ranged rabbits for a while. Even with the same amount of grooming and handling as a caged/indoor rabbit, these rabbits were kittish and jumpy. I brought them back into cages and they settled down. Because of this experience, I DON'T believe that free-ranging rabbits is necessarily a good idea. A nervous jumpy rabbit is not a happy rabbit.
Rabbits will scratch you if you don't handle them correctly/carefully. (Also poor temperament rabbits with kick and scratch regardless of how you handle them.) I have gauntlets for handling rabbits. I rarely use them, but when my son (3 yrs old) handles a rabbit (he has a tiny pet rabbit, not a meaty) he wears gauntlets.
I'll shut up now, lol. You can see pics of my rabbits and rabbitry here: http://www.penelopesrabbitry.blogspot.com
One other thing to consider. IF you have rabbits with good temperament, you can get yourself in a position to command a premium price for pet rabbits. Around here pet rabbits go for free to $15. I get $60 because they have excellent temperaments. I sold off $300 worth of culls this year which gave me enough money to put in more cages, get some carry cages, add breeding stock and put in an automatic watering system. Pretty sweet.