So are you saying dont use the oxygen packs when storing dehydrated foods? (just asking because i plan to start dehydrating, and i want to store my food correctly..) THanks!~gd said:OP Yes they work for DRY foods but the larger mouth 3L soda or the even larger mouth juice jugs work better.
PATCH-Be careful, if placed in the sun the heat can get to 105F inside when outside air is 45-50 F! How do I know? Sealed a thermometer in one.
WESTTXThey make wonderful overnight frost protectors, just cut off one end, and slip over the plant before nightfall. see warning to Patch above. How do I cut them? Fill with water freeze and use a power saw, hand saw will work. Empty they tend to collapse.
DD-my bugs must be smarter than yours because about 20% of mine fly back out the neck. I drill a hole in the cap for the size of bug I am after. Despite the popular saying, I catch more flies with vinegar then honey. Old beer is good bait for yellow jackets.
Bee-Careful they will sun brittle, if tightly sealed they will crack. In general sand is NOT a better heat storage media but would be for these bottles. I have used them to brood chicks when the power fails; I heat the water over propane. One bottle for 8-10 chicks they will cuddle up and keep the bottle warm without going into a heat huddle which usually results in a few deaths.
OP-again.. Those oxygen absorbers are what created the botulism risk Toxin is not produced in DRY foods and oxygen will kill them. Just another case of someone using junk science. Oxygen absorbers will protect foods from oxidation true but dehydrated foods were oxidized when they were dehydrated. Removing the oxygen just made it easy for the bacteria that produce toxin. They need moisture [why drying works] non acid [why pickling works] low oxygen [vacuum canning, this is why things must be sterilized before sealing] and reasonable temperatures to produce the toxin. The bacteria are widespread and fairly harmless. It is not the bacteria but the toxin produced that will kill.
What I use them for -watering things over an extended time where my hose will not reach. Most garden centers will offer plastic spikes that replace the caps of 2L bottles. The spikes have holes that let out water to the root zone. When that is saturated the watering stops. In fast draining soils it will start again as the water leaves the zone. I could write a short book on these as a watering device. Being cheap on my heavy clay, I just skip the spike, put a pin hole in the bottom, fill with water and cap tightly. Placed near a plant it will drip until there is a vacuum in the bottle then it stops. When it cools in the evening it will suck air back into the bottle to produce a slow leak the next day as it heats up. Sounds unlikely right ,so dont try it at home.~gd